Taping Wall Seams
The walls are all up in the bedroom! This is a huge step for us because it's something so visibly different that's happened to the trailer. Construction instead of deconstruction! But of course there are downsides to construction - the bedroom is now a lot darker than before and we can't just walk through the walls to get in and out of the trailer! Before the front bedroom wall or framing was up Jerud and I kept talking about how sweet it would be if that entire wall was just one big window that you could open. Mmm...maybe in our next home.
With all of the walls up it's time to tape the seams up so it's not visible after the walls have been painted. At least this is what we read we're supposed to do.
Tools that you'll need to tape wall seams:
- Scissors: to cut the seam tape
- Painters tape: to hold up long pieces of seam tape up against the wall
- Little roller: to roll over the seam tape after it's been heated by the...
- Heat gun: the glue on the backside of the seam tape is activated by heat
These two pictures are not of the same part of the wall. But it shows you what the wall seam looks like before the seam tape is adhere to the wall.
The bedroom walls has several seams that had to be taped. Since we had to install floor to ceiling length walls there are seams created by the walls and ceiling that needed to be taped. We didn't, rather couldn't, cut the walls so that they would be flush with the ceiling therefore creating a larger gap than we wanted by the ceiling. Before taping that seam we had to cover it with joint compound (photo on the right).
The seam tape in the photo on the left is taped to the wall with painter's tape because it's such a long piece that I needed help to get it to stay up while I used the heat gun to tape it to the wall. And the photo above shows the ceiling seam taped.
The ceiling seam by the front bedroom window we covered with 3/4" round molding instead of the seam tape because it looks a lot better. We also realized that the brads we put into the new ceiling luan we installed pops out (like in photo above) if we stand on the beams on the roof that the brads are nailed into. So we re-nailed it into the ceiling and remembered to not walk on those beams.
We needed to find a clean way to attach the luan to the beams around the window instead of using staples, which doesn't have a clean look. So we ended up using liquid nails to glue the luan to the window beams. Then using a piece of wood we clamped it to the window to hold the luan tightly while the glue dried.
The distribution box (the distribution box has main power supply coming for the DC and AC, in RVs opposed to houses, and then it divides that power out to multiple circuits) used to be located under the fridge. But that wasn't a good location for us so we moved it from under the fridge into the bathroom. Two holes were cut out of the walls - one in the bathroom and the other where the shower surround will be. The hole in the shower had to be cut so framing could be installed on the inside of the bathroom wall to support the weight of the distribution box. Photo on the left: Jerud installing the framing from the shower side, middle photo: hole in the shower wall and the back of the distribution box, and photo on the right: view of the face of the distribution box from inside the bathroom.
A shot of the roof with all the wires laid out going to its specific locations. Jerud spent several weeks figuring out what all the original wires do, where they lead to and then diagraming where they need to go.
Once finishing the wiring it was time to test it out to see if worked or not. Lo and behold, it does! After feelings of excitement it's feelings of relief.
After working on the bedroom walls more we realized that using staples to hold the luan in place wasn't a good idea. The staples weren't strong enough to hold the luan and it was too noticeable. We pulled out all the staples and replaced it with brads. Then we used joint compound to cover the staple holes and the brads (which doesn't always work great).
It also seemed like just using the heat gun on the seam tape wasn't working great so we tried the iron. While the seam tape is a great idea theoretically, in reality it didn't work that well. We're (or more so me) worried that the seam tape will come off the walls some point later because it didn't seem to be sticking on the walls very well now.
We installed a 2" x 6" piece of wood between where the shower surround is going to and the bedroom (see the vertical lighter colored piece of wood between the window hole and the insulation). This piece of wood replaces the whole wall that we took out. We installed the 2" x 6" because we decided that would help keep the shower curtain in place better and keep water from the shower from spraying past the shower curtain.